|This is the pattern that I am using. The fabric is a dark green color. It is mostly wool.|
I sewed along, thinking "Oh this isn't hard at all." Spoke too soon there. I got to step 17: Shaping lapel over hand, padstitch lightly from roll line to outer edges. After looking up online what on earth padstitching meant, I hit rock bottom in the ambition department. I told my mother, "If I had known this jacket was going to be this much work, I wouldn't have started it." Well, padstitch the lapels I did, after I decided that buying the machines to do the work was definitely not an option. My fingers were pricked and hurting when I was finished, 6+ hours later, but the lapels were finished! Then there was the collar to padstitch but that only took a little over an hour.
So after that hurdle, I was happy and on I went. Then I came to the under collar and front facing and realized I hit another rock. I searched online for help - didn't find a thing. Brought it to a shop in town - they couldn't help. Looked through books on sewing, tailoring, custom fitting - nothing. Finally my aunt said to "fudge" it. Okay then. That is my usual style of sewing anyway so this morning, I took an old sheet and cut out a mock of the two pattern pieces. I basted them together, trimmed, graded, pressed, top stitched, and pinned in place. Any hey!!! It worked! So I am going to post pictures so that if others ever come across this problem, maybe it will be of some help to them.
These are the two pieces causing me trouble. Notice the green fabric sticking out on each piece. We cut these like this because we didn't know how to add length to the pieces. We used 1/4" graph paper to lengthen all the pieces. It worked out great. Chopped the piece at the lengthen/shorten line, added the graph paper, and taped it in.
So the solution to my problem... for piece 28, I drew a straight line from the outside seam off the bottom piece until it hit the outside seam line on the top piece. I cut out the mock piece on the red line
The mock turned out great so now I am going to cut out the actual fabric. But first, a few pictures of what I have so far.
|The front of the jacket.|
|The left lapel with the mock under collar and front facing.|
|The right lapel that is padsitched.|
|The back collar. Half is covered with the mock and the other half is still not covered.|
|An overall picture of the back.|